Salicylic Acid


Salicylic Acid
is used to treat blemishes and acne. By removing older skin cells, newly produced skin is revealed. This reduces the occurrence of blackheads, clogged pores and excess sebum. Salicylic acid is very effective in treating blemished skin, and is 
also beneficial to treat sun damaged skin.

How to use Salicylic Acid
Products intended to use out of clinics normally contains salicylic acid in 2-5% concentrations. Can be applied 1-2 times per day to treat acne and blemished skin. Normal side effects in early stages are dryness and irritated skin, which should be treated with oil-free moisturizers. If your skin condition is dry/irritated, salicylic acid should only be used 2-3 times per week in early stages. Treatments in clinics (chemical peels) may contain higher concentrations, and can successfully be combined with other treatments for blemished skin.

Salicylic Acid should not be used while pregnant or lactating.

The following Elixir products contain Salicylic Acid

Glycolic Acid


Alpha Hydroxy Acid 
refers to a large group of natural acids with skin improving effects. They include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and mandelic acid, which are derived from natural sources such as fruits, sugar canes and milk.

How does Glycolic Acid work?
By dissolving sebum and other substances that bind skin cells, glycolic acid enables skin to naturally peel. By removing dead skin cells from stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis), skin is left smooth, fresh and more even toned. High concentrations of glycolic acid can brighten dark spots and even out hyperpigmentation. The natural acids also successfully treat sun damaged skin, and stimulate the production of collagen.

In general, glycolic acid is most effective at a concentration between 10% and 20%. Higher concentrations can be used in clinics as chemical peel treatments.

What can I expect when using Glycolic Acids?
Serveral clinical studies proves that glycolic acids successfully improves damaged skin. Fine lines, hyperpigmentation and rough skin is improved. Side effects can be redness, dryness and light irritation. Treatment with glycolic acids is suitable for more or less all skin conditions, except for some cases with eczema, rosacea and/or couperose. It is important to always use SPF during daytime while treating skin with glycolic acids.

The following Elixir products contain Glycolic Acid

Vitamin C / L-ascorbic Acid


L-ascorbic Acid
is known as Vitamin C – one of the most powerful antioxidants. Helps reduce damages to your genetic material caused by UV-radiation. Neutralizes free radicals and restores skin’s balance. Products containing Vitamin C are recommended to use during periods of sun exposure. The vitamin will also reduce irritation and inflammation in your skin.

How does L-ascorbic Acid work?
Clinical studies has proved that Vitamin C reduces the number of sun damaged cells in your skin with 40-60%, as well as reducing UV-damages in skin’s genetic material by 62%. Vitamin C also has anti-inflammatory properties, and helps boost the production of collagen. A concentration of 10-20% is recommended to obtain desired effect. Higher concentrations are more effective.

How effective is L-ascorbic Acid?
A clinical study from 1999 showed that 84% of the respondents experienced significant improvement in fine lines (68%), skin texture/roughness (36%) and hyperpigmentation (32%). The respondents also experienced light tingling (55%), redness (24%) and dryness (5%), which is normal when treated with Vitamin C.

The following Elixir products contain Vitamin C / L-ascorbic Acid

Kojic Acid


Kojic Acid
 is a modern skin care ingredient which functions primarily as a skin-lightening agent. When applied to skin in concentrated amounts, the acid work on the melanocytes in the skin, interfering with the production of melanin. This neutralizes the skin tone and diminishes the appearance of sun damage, melasma, solar lentigines and hyperpigmentation.

How does Kojic Acid work?
The active ingredient inhibits the process of pigmentation. It is a powerful antioxidant that also prevents the formation of hyperpigmentation. Clinical studies has proved that Kojic Acid combined with Glycolic Acid gives results comparable to those of Hydroquionone.

Vitamin A / Retinol

Clinical studies proves that long-term use of Vitamin A / Retinol can dramatically improve sun damaged skin and signs of ageing. It is highly effective as its molecules are able to fully penetrate the outer layer of skin and reach the middle layer called dermis. By delivering ingredients to the living cells in dermis, retinol is able to produce more noticeable results than other ingredients that affect only the outer layer. Retinol is widely known to even out fine lines, diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improve sun damaged skin. In addition, it has beneficial effects on skin tone, pores and blemishes/acne.

Vitamin A / Retinol should not be used while pregnant or lactating.
Use with caution if troubled with eczema, rosacea or couperose.
Expect full effect after 6-12 weeks of continous use.

Clinical studies
Retinol has been researched in numerous clinical studies. Archives of Dermatology proved that continous use of Retinol for 24 weeks significantly diminishes the appearance of fine lines and boosts the production of collagen. Sun damages are also improved, showed a study of October, 2009.

How to use

  1. Apply PM on cleansed skin
  2. Use very little product – the size of a pea should cover entire face
  3. Follow with moisturizer 20 minutes after applying Retinol / Vitamin A
  4. Always use SPF during daytime
  5. If skin is left irritated or red, pause your treatment and treat with rich moisturizer
  6. Adjust frequency based on how your skin tolerates the treatment
  7. After 9 months of continous use, reduce frequency to 2-3 times per week to maintain results.

 

The following Elixir products contain Vitamin A / Retinol

Azelaic Acid


How does Azelaic Acid work?
Azelaic Acid is effective in treating a number of skin conditions, such as acne, inflammation and hyperpigmentation. It is naturally present in the skin and is also found in other sources, including wheat, rye and barley. The acid prevents bacteria growth, inhibits production of keratinocytes (fats) and normalizes the epidermis.

How do I use Azelaic Acid?
Apply a thin layer onto targeted areas after cleansing skin. AM and/or PM. If skin is left irritated or red, decrease or pause use.

Acne
Expect significant improvement within 4 weeks. For maximum effect, use continuously for several months. Azalaic Acid has anti-inflammatory effects that prevents bacteria growth, inhibits production of keratinocytes (fats) and normalizes the epidermis.

Rosacea
Expect significant improvement within 4-8 weeks. For maximum effect, use continuously for several months. Unknown dermatological mechanism. In vitro and ex vivo studies indicate that Azelaic Acid reduces the production of proinflammatory relative oxygen compounds.

Classification:
Aliphatic Dicarbolic Acid. Treatment for acne and rosacea.


 

The following Elixir products contain Azelaic Acid

Niacinamide


Niacinamide
is made from Vitamin B3 and is found in all cells where it plays an important role in cellular energy production. Over time, levels of enzymes decrease in skin. This results in dryness, loss of elasticity and glow.

Studies prove that Niacinamide also helps lighten areas of pigmentation and age spots by dissolving accumulations of melanin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and is also beneficial for treating skin conditions such as psoriasis and rosacea.

Niacinamide stimulates cells in the dermis to produce more collagen, which gives skin support and youthful firmness. The potent ingredient also prevents moisture loss by increasing the production of ceramides in the outer layer of the epidermis, which shields skin against moisture loss and protects it from bacteria and environmental pollution. Niacinamine will as well as reduce blotchiness and uneven skin tone and texture.

Niacinamide and ageing
As our skin age, it gets thinner and drier. We develop lines and wrinkles, and the levels of collagen, elastin and proteins decline. This leads to loss of structure, texture and elasticity. Studies by Oblong proved that Niacinamide stimulates the production of collagen and protein. Other clinical studies have proved that skin is left smoother and more even after 12 weeks of treatment with Niacinamide.

Niacinamide and hyperpigmentation
Clinical studies have proved that Niacinamide helps diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation. In a clinical test, Asian female skin with melasma was treated with 5% Niacinamide. After 8 weeks the hyperpigmentation was lightened with significant results. A different clinical test compared sun protection with and without Niacinamide, where the types with Niacinamide had more powerful effects on sun damages. A third clinical study compared the use of Niacinamide and Hydroquione (medical skin whitener) on melasma. Niacinamide improved skin 44%, and Hydroquinone improved skin 55%. It is not known why Niacinamide has skin-brightening effects. Experts believe that it helps pigmented cells release pigment quicker.

Niacinamide and oily skin
Studies prove that combinated skin types with oily T-zone will experience reduced sebum production if treated with Niacinamide.

Niacinamide and wrinkles
A clinical study proved a significant improvement on lines and texture when treated with Niacinamide.